Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Friday Five: Thai Things I'm Determined to Learn


I live in two places simultaneously: Thailand and a perpetual state of confusion. These are five things that exist in Thailand that I'm determined to understand during my time here.

(Two quick notes: I know it's Wednesday. I haven't posted a Friday Five in two weeks because of lack of internet. I wanted to write, so I had to take hold of the motivation while it was present. Contrary to the following entry, I can count. I realize there's only four. These were the four I thought from which I could induce the most hilarity).

1. The Thai Lottery- Mostly in markets, or high traffic areas, there are people who walk around with little cache cases. Inside them, they host innumerable little tickets with pink numbers on them and a bunch of smaller ones in black. Apparently, these tickets relate somehow to the national lottery. These individuals also hold Thai newspaper that have a section with dozens (hundreds) of apparently winning lottery numbers. I have zero idea how the two correlate. I know the following will be a simple-minded analysis of the situation, but I can't think outside the box: First, why would people consult the newspaper to inform their decision on which ticket to buy? I'm assuming winning numbers are as random as a number selection can be, and therefore independent. The likelihood of "95135" winning in consecutive days/weeks is just as likely as it not happening. The past selection of a number does not influence its future potential selection. Second, if they buy a ticket first and then subsequently look at the newspaper (to see if they won...?), shouldn't they have looked at the paper in the first place? If that's the case, wouldn't we all be winners? I'm clearly missing something.

2. Driving- It's scary here. Lanes are literally just guidelines, if they are even present, and rules are more like suggestions that are open to interpretation and optional to follow, regardless of said interpretation. I've now been on a freeway going 120 kilometers/hour and also done 25 kilometers/hour on the same freeway with two different drivers. Other quick observations: All lanes are passing lanes; Got five people in your family and only one moped? We see no problems. What if one's a toddler and/or a pet? Ain't no thang- they can hold and/or sit on the handlebars; Need to make a right turn against traffic? Just pull out slowly and make people stop for you; The bigger you are, the more permission you have to move about as if you're the only person on the road. Fare thee well, moped with family of five.

Additionally, people are either super confident or super stupid in their ability to maneuver their cars. Concurrent with lanes and rules being suggestions, parking is also done on a whim. If you need to park and stop, it appears kosher to do it wherever you need to, regardless of inconveniencing others. I feel like spatial knowledge in relation to others is far different than other places, or America at least (read: non-existent). People put themselves and their cars in the strangest of places and then pull odd maneuvers to get themselves out of it, often times taking considerable time and effort and done at the behest of many others. 

3. "Facts" based on assumptions- An interesting, and admittedly frustrating, part of Thai culture is how quickly ideas about you, Americans, Peace Corps, etc. become fact, regardless of them actually being true or not. First, there are many assumptions about Westerners: They're all White and Christian. They can't eat spicy foods. They're all rich. They all drink a lot. Imagine their faces when I state that I am half Mexican, Buddhist, devour spicy foods, have less than zero moneys, and don't drink (at site). The typical reaction is equivalent to me opening a worm hole in front of their very eyes, jumping in it, and reappearing upside down, on my head, right behind them. Additionally, if Thais see you do something once when first making an impression about you, then it means you do it all day, every day, even if it's the furthest thing from the truth. Should I have had a beer the first time I met my school, that would have meant me drinking all the beers. On the flip side, actually, I refused all alcohol during site visit and my welcome party at my host family's house, to the tune of my site now understanding I "never drink." In this case, it worked to my advantage.

Really, their exposure to Western culture is through media and foreigners. A lot of the Western media I've seen here seems pretty skanky- (blonde) floozies everywhere, macho dudes, violence. Subsequently, a lot of the Western foreigners I've seen here seem pretty skanky- culturally insensitive, zeroes to heroes, so to speak, drunk. Basically, they get a very limited view of America and just how diverse it is, and really only get the worst and most stereotypical view. At least Peace Corps Volunteers admirably address goal #2 (improve the knowledge of Americans on behalf of the host country) in this sense.

Perhaps I just answered my own confusion.

4. Criticism- This is perhaps the most strange to me. Personal attributes that are"flawed" (e.g. "fat" a.k.a. not thin as a stick, acne, dark skin) are immediately pointed out and joked about. Now, I don't necessarily think it's done maliciously, but coming from a culture that views these words as verbal attacks, and the complete opposite as a joke, make them difficult to hear. For example, a few weeks ago and earlier this week, I was ceaselessly called "fat." Being an individual who has had their share of body image issues, it was tough to hear. In fact, one person who I felt the most hurt by, I sort of stared at for a moment, completely disregarded their comment, and proceeded to blatantly ignore them. I'm not sure if I broke face (which I will soon attempt to explain), but I definitely think I hurt the relationship... Which is funny. I understand being in Thailand and being respectful of Thai culture, but I Thais know that I'm not Thai and that I a) don't understand all of Thai culture and b) don't necessarily abide by all of Thai culture. Even though I was the one who felt hurt, I also ended up feeling a bit bad because of my reaction. I did explain to my host family that to call someone "fat" in America is done in bad form, and if they are describing a person's body size, to use larger, thick, big. They appeared to understand, as it hasn't happened since, and informed me that in Thai, they only use oo-an (fat) to describe people larger than average.

On the contrary, if someone is terrible at their job, especially a manager or executive, they only receive praise for the work they do. This is, obviously, the extreme opposite of America. If someone sucks at their job, they're done. Someone else can do better. Here, it's navigating this kind of situation is difficult to tread. Aforementioned in this blog, the most important professional act one can do is build relationships, regardless of how well one does their job. Job performance is not valued like it is in the Western world. Americans are result driven and goal oriented. That just simply isn't the case here. That person who is terrible at their job? As long as they've developed solid relationships at their organization, they're good. It is more important in Thai culture to ensure that their failings are not public knowledge and everyone acts as if that person is competent. To publicly break someone's face is social suicide. You just don't do it.

It is a very difficult concept for me to grasp. My personal opinion (as Western and biased as it is) is that the concept of saving face restricts positive social and developmental progress. If everyone is happy and pretending they're all solid workers and can't hold each other (and especially leaders) accountable, how can progress be made? How can improvements occur? How does development take a strong foothold and create a solid base?

Please don't read this as inflammatory of Thai people and culture. It is merely one foreigner's culturally biased view, and confusion, of the different social nuances to which he is now subject. Fortunately, I have two years to develop a better understanding of all of these things.

Sunday, April 14, 2013

On Thai Generosity

Please imagine for me, if you will, the following:

You volunteer to house a complete stranger in your home. They are from a foreign country, and beyond knowing they are here as a volunteer to "do some good," you know little else. You don't know their past, sex, trustworthiness, communication skills, how dedicated they are to their job, or the myriad other details that make up an individual.

You welcome them into your arms, family, and home full well expecting: cultural differences and the potentially awkward situations that arise, instability in your typically stable life, situations that are difficult, frustrating, and/or embarrassing, and your monthly bills to rise. You give them the complete and utter trust that you typically only afford close friends and family members.

However, you can reasonably hope for: Laughs, cultural exchange, new experiences, sharing knowledge, maybe even creating a true bond, and even a few bucks thrown your way to cover costs.

This is exactly what my host-family is currently doing, save for the whole "get a few bucks back."

Upon talking to them about paying rent, my host-mother gave me a most incredulous look, stated, "mai ao." Do not want. They were more than happy to host a Peace Corps Volunteer and found it ludicrous to accept money for it, regardless of me costing them who knows what per month. Instead, they worked it out with my school director to donate the money to the school, as the students who attend it are generally poorer and the school needs the money.

It's actions like this that make me doubt the whole "random acts of kindness" in Thailand. They occur far too frequently to be labeled as such, and are, to me, clearly a cultural phenomenon. Taking care of others, instead of oneself, is far more important.


Friday, April 12, 2013

Of Journeys

Eight souls enter
All clad in rust, the eldest presides
Elevated over the commons
The silence is enveloping

A chant prompts stirring from below
Eyes close
Heads lower
Hands meet at the heart

Those in rust are bound
Physically and spiritually, I am you and you are me
A final prayer reminds us
There is no beginning; there is no end

Only a return to the world
May you be gazed upon with fortune
Now blessed for their journey
One soul departs

Thursday, April 4, 2013

And So We Begin

Peace Corps Thailand 125 has been off and running (or walking gingerly, in my case) for about a week and half now. Training as a whole was quite regimented- us trainees always had something to do at someplace and sometime with someone. We were run ragged for ten weeks.

In no more than an instant, forty-seven of the best people I’ve ever known were dispersed all over Thailand- From the northern province of Nan, to the far boarders of Burma, Cambodia, and Laos, and the far south, in Surat Thani.

In quite a sudden fashion, we all have schedules that reflect the very opposite of what we had grown accustomed to in Suphan Buri. Since school is out until mid/late May, many of us are free to do as we wish in our communities, so far as it better integrates us and builds relationships, which, as mentioned in previous posts, is the most critical part of Thai culture. Therefore, some of us are putting on English camps already, others biking around town, some chatting up the locals at restaurants or government agencies, and yet some other (lucky) folks have been Thainapped and taken on bpai-tiao all over Thailand in celebration of numerous things- the school year ending, welcoming a new teammate to the school, and building camaraderie.

Lo and behold, I was one of the lucky latter volunteers. Please enjoy the following photos from Lom Sak, Petchabun and Chiang Khan, Loei.




















It feels awfully strange to inherit an amorphous blob that doubles as my new schedule. As tiring as PST was, I have to admit it’s pretty nice always knowing what’s coming next, what to expect, etc. I’m not virgin to these kinds of situations, however. In fact, it’s equally satisfying to no longer have to do literally every little thing on Peace Corps’ schedule, but now rather, my own.

Today will mark my second day actually “working,” as my first two days at site comprised of a yoga training, and the following five consisted of travelling and laying the foundation for friendships. What’s on the schedule, you may ask? Editing some English speeches for an ASEAN English camp for local principals (that I may or may not have to attend…?), doing two weeks’ worth of laundry (and thank the stars my family has washing machine), paying rent to my wonderful host-family, who gave me a laughably incredulous look and stated, “mai ao.” No thanks. So, that should be a fun battle.

Assuming I have to attend the principal camp, next week looks like some hardcore biking around the local districts with some potential stops at the beach, “to chat with the locals.” Yeah no, I mean that facetiously, but everyone and their dog will want to know why a farang is visiting their beach, so that means talking to all the people and practicing my Thai…

This brings me to the point of language- it’s slowly but surely coming along. I can’t remember if I have mentioned this in a previous entry, but language acquisition feels like a climb up a mountain with numerous plateaus. Each day you learn more and more, but don’t necessarily “put it all together,” then, almost magically, you wake up and start to hear/understand/say things you couldn’t yesterday. I envision these days as making progress up the mountain, while the days where you think you’ll never get the language as the plateau days, where you just sit and toil. I’m growing accustomed to the Southern dialect (described as faster, shorter, and more aggressive; am told even some native Thai speakers have difficulty understanding the Thai spoken here. Oh boy!) and feel that even in the ten days since PST/formal language training ended, my Thai has improved.

I’ve already met some very generous people outside of my school who have offered me many things, not the least of which include visits/dinners at their homes, translation and “helping me out of trouble,” and even potential job opportunities for Nadia. Many others already regard me as a son and want to make sure I’m comfortable in every way imaginable. I have to say, Thai folks are among the kindest I’ve ever been around.

I apologize for this general entry. I normally don’t care much for these, but since on one hand, so much as happened, and on the other, not much at all, I figured this was the best way to update everyone. Additionally, in all honesty, there hasn’t been one particular moment or story that immediately jumped out at me as one that deserved its own in depth story.

We’ll have to save that for another day.

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Heart of a Lyin'


King of the (urban) jungle, they say
Proud, hubris abound
You stealthily seek your prey
Adroitly, it is yours

What are you to others?
A dream? A nightmare?
Do you even care?
You feel nothing is beyond your grasp

Until one too many thoughts of self-interest
Too few ideas about the brilliance of another
Shows your true state
King of my own self-imposed prison, you say

Monday, March 25, 2013

And Now For Something New...

Confident strides through the bustling streets
Met by overwhelming stimuli
Sights, smells, sounds, it's all new, yet oddly familiar
The intoxicating aroma of delectable treats returns me to the present

Sweat beads as the debris riddled sidewalk is maneuvered
Tradition and modernity juxtapose
Perhaps in the name of progress
The monk riding a motorbike, the temple amidst cloud-kissing towers

Swaths of people
Each face, a different agenda
But here we have met
To whom do I show gratitude for the privilege?

No place I'd rather be than here
No time I'd rather be than now
This is my liberation
This is my life

Saturday, March 23, 2013

Friday Five: Strangest Foods Consumed Thus Far

Self explanatory. Aroi scale ranges from one to gorge.
  1. Meal worms- Not as bad as one might think, really. They're fried and salted. They're kind of airy though, so when you bite into them, it lacks any real meaty texture, and your teeth rend their little insect bodies with little satisfaction. Four out of gorge.
  2. Cockroach yang- Grilled cockroach. They're a bit intimidating to eat, what with their huge buggy black eyes and tough exterior. However, once getting through their exo-skeleton and masticating their delicious meat, you'll be hooked. Not bad for a little bugger who consumes trash. Six out of gorge.
  3. Duck feet- Nothing to explain here. As gross as you'd expect. Negative two out of gorge.
  4. A whole scorpion- I ended up with scorpion parts all over my teeth. Texture was funny, not really meaty. Meh. Three out of gorge. 
  5. Duck blood guai-tiao- This is soup in a dark broth. It has noodles, green onions, some green vegetable, duck meat, and coagulated duck blood cubes. It's actually really delicious, and if no one told you you were eating duck blood cubes, you'd just think it was dark tofu. GORGE OUT OF GORGE.